Pattern Drafting, Pattern Grading, Garment Making and by Edmund Gurney

By Edmund Gurney

Initially released in 1939, this e-book includes functional wisdom at the technological know-how of tailoring and stitching via making it appealing and available to all minds desirous of studying it.

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Extra info for Pattern Drafting, Pattern Grading, Garment Making and Garment Fitting (3rd Edition)

Sample text

Primarily we have taken note of the indi- vidual posture in accordance with description of individual types and measures as on Pages 25 and 26. H/6HSHOULDERS SLOPlHG\ [41] FITTING THE ROUND SHOULDERED INDIVIDUAL It is an economical advantage and great time saver to have ready to use a complete set of dress patterns, also to have a set of dress lin- ings ready made to try on. If so, you will be sur- prised at the fitting qualities, and for abnormal forms this will enable you to note essential alterations which primarily can be taken care of when cutting the material.

Figure 8. V to V1 is the original dart. E to E1 equals V to V1. Make a fold on the pattern so that E to V meets E1 to V1 and cut the lining by this pattern. Baste a piece of cambric 4 inches wide across the front just below the armscye. Put the lining on and cut the lining only across the front over the fullest part of the bust to the under arm seam as in Figure 8B. Let the lower portion of the lining drop until it hangs in a straight line down the cen- ter front and pin it to the cambric which is TO MAKE PIN TUCKS IN THE FRONT Pin tucks in the front are double and neutral acting.

K is center of G to GG. GG to J is yz inch. Draw line J to K. H to L is % inch. E to M is 14 of the total waist measure plus 1 inch. Draw the curved line M to L. Draw line DD to M. A to N is 2% inches for size 16 and increases V& inch for each size larger and decreases ys inch for each size smaller. N to O is 3 inches. Square a line down from O. TO DRAFT THE DRESS BACK Before drafting, read the chapters on Meas- ures and Pattern Drafting. Then follow direc- tions and as you proceed, complete each step.

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